Few places are as unique as Japan. It is a country that holds a special place in my heart. It is the place that I called home in 2019 when I studied in the Kansai region, a place where many of my friends are located, and generally a place where I feel at ease. Is it the incredible mix of bustling cities and incredible nature? The food? The cleanliness? Perhaps the manners and reliability of it all? I would say it is a mix of all of those. Japan always manages to impress me, it is a never ending place of interest that keeps me fascinated and wanting more. Having been fortune enough to call the Kansai region (famous for the cities of Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and Nara among others) my temporary home, I like to think that I know my way around this part of Japan. While Osaka was my home turf, I really enjoyed the dozen or so day trips to Kyoto just as much. The city gets quite a lot of slack online from people saying that it is overrated and overcrowded. I have to disagree! Is Kyoto busy? Absolutely, anyone walking around Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkaku-ji or Gion would confirm that. But just as London is more than Buckingham Palace and the Big Ben, Kyoto has plenty of lesser known spots that offer you some tranquility. Among my favourites are getting lost deep into Arashiyama, the side streets of Higashiyama, the more urban and industrial districts in the south of Kyoto, and the mysterious mountains in the north. It is here, up in the mountains nearby Kibune and Kurama where you will find some incredible vibes and a feeling of oldschool Japan. On a more recent trip to the country, I got to explore this part of Kyoto.
It all starts by getting to Kurama and Kibune in the first place, which is certainly a bit more tricky than your stroll towards the temples straight from Kawaramachi. You will have to switch trains a few times, but then you will be rewarded with a final scenic train ride up into the mountains. From here, you leave bustling downtown Kyoto behind and make space for small residential areas nestled into the mountains, and a lot of nature. During the fall foliage, the time of the year I was in Kibune, there is even a special night train that turns off its lights so that travellers can enjoy the incredible colors of the leaves that are being lit up by lights. When you arrive in Kurama and Kibune, you will notice how quiet it is! Surely, there will be some tourists, but it is night and day different from the city centre. The streets here are lined with some shops and local restaurants. There is even a ryokan with an Onsen, which I would love to try. It is here that I got to eat ‘boar udon’. An interesting, chewy texture which I would not order again, but certainly contributed to the experience. The walk around Kibune and Kurama can be quite steep, the streets are narrow and twisty, so bring proper hiking shoes. As you climb the roads ahead, the number of restaurants reduce and you will start to notice the famous paths lined by red lanterns. It certainly is an incredibly pretty sight. During the summer months, restaurants offer special seats build on platforms on top of the river. While I definitely would love to try that experience too, I might think that Kibune in the autumn months is just as pretty. For the real adventurers, continue to climb the mountain in Kurama to the top, where you will find the beautiful Kuramadera Temple hidden in the clouds.
Less hidden, but definitely worth a visit too is the ‘Philosopher’s Path’ or Tetsugaku no Michi in Japanese, in eastern Kyoto. This part of Kyoto is close to the Higashiyama district, which makes it easier to get too. However, be aware that there is no train connection in this part of town, so you might have to walk a bit more. The Philosophers Path is a beautiful trial next to a narrow stream, which connects various temples and shrines on the eastern side of Kyoto. It has gotten more popular over the years, but by no means is it as crowded as the main attractions in the city.
My recommendation would be to start at Nanzen-ji, an incredible temple which is surely worthy of a visit. From here, walk behind the temple towards the Philosophers Path. It is a nicely stretched road overlooking some homes, restaurants, cafes, and some touristy shops. Fancy viewing more temples? Leave the road at the designated signs to visit any of the shrines and temples that are just a few minutes away from the trial.
One of the more special temples to visit is Honen-in Temple. Nestled on top of a little climb with steep stairs and next to the mountains, this is a rather special temple. It almost feels like you are teleporting, as you can walk through the gate of the temple and explore the two sides of the grounds which are quite different. You will find hardly any foreign tourists here, especially compared to the bigger temples along this road. Again, make sure to visit in autumn or winter for the prettiest pictures. Done viewing Honen-in? Continue your walk to Ginkaku-ji, which is super close to Honen-in. From the start, you will notice that Ginkaku-ji is certainly more busy with foreign tourists, but that does not spoil the fun.
The temple is definitely worth a visit. the silver (Gin) temple is actually less busy than the postcard-ridden golden (Kin) temple. In my opinion, you should try to visit both, but Ginkaku-ji has a bigger and nicer pathway on the temple grounds that offer nice views from any point. Do not forget to buy some ‘Omamori’, or lucky pouches at your favorite temples. There are Omamori for numerous occasions and wishes: passing an exam, having success in business, love, health, recovery from illness, you name it. Each temple has their own Omamori, usually with the name of the temple written on the back of the pouch and blessed by the temple. I make it a habit to always bring Omamori for my family with me from my trips to Japan, buying different Omamori for different people at the various temples that I visit. Prices vary, but for between 3 to 5 euros, it makes for a special, emotional and memorable souvenir that you would not find at the touristy shops or duty-free shops.